Thursday, April 22, 2010

strangers in the night

Where to begin. Well, last night we decided we would like to skip out of town for a day and see either Pompeii or the little island of Capri. After checking the weather we decided on Pompeii, and at 11:30 we booked our tickets.

Meeting time-- 7:30 AM. The cabbie was upset and didn't want to take us to our meeting place because there were only two of us; he had a big car and hadn't eaten brekkie yet. Poor guy. We weren't much better because the Italian Navy convention kept us up until the wee hours with a wild party, music and fireworks outside our window!

So we boarded a tour bus with a group of Spanish, French, Dutch, American, Australian, and English people and drove three hours south to Naples. We had a quick 15-minute bus tour of the harbor and shipyards where WWII bomb raids were still visible on the cracked, pockmarked and dilapidated buildings - over 27,000 bombs were dropped on Naples and the city was nearly destroyed. The island of Capri was barely visible in the hazy distance as we looked out over hundreds of lobster (crab?) pots in the bay!



About this time, our 84-year-old tour guide Franco began regaling us not only with his totally cheese-ball and sometimes inappropriate jokes, but also with his renditions of Strangers in the Night, Embraceable You, and a Stevie Wonder tune. We both felt a little like we got on the geezer bus - not that those songs aren't great - we just did not want to hear our tour guide sing them to us...we also found out that he only eats pasta once a week to help keep his figure. hm. TMI. AND to top it off we were told not to speak on the bus so he wouldn't get confused and make mistakes translating his little facts into the three languages. Which we could understand, but jeeze, don't talk on a tour in a bus for 3 hours? come on.

Besides the crazy guide, and the pushy vendors, Pompeii was magnificent. The ruins are not so much that you can't decipher what happened, but enough to remind you of how the city had been destroyed, and how old it was. Mt. Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD and covered Pompeii in 25 feet of ash and cinder. No actual lava hit the city, so the inhabitants were, to put it bluntly, smothered to death. There are casts of all the organic materials found in the hardened ash, including those of people holding their noses, sleeping, dogs all curled up, along with wooden doors, pots, sculptures, etc. Some of the houses still had frescoes on the walls, and most of the square plots of land could be identified as stores, houses, brothels, money changing stations, markets, baths, temples, and court houses. Imagining what the city would have looked like, and been like back then was one of our favorite things to do. We wondered about what they were wearing, what they ate, and how they went about their daily lives. Probably much like we do now. Eat, work, talk with friends, like everyone does.






After 8 hours in the bus today we've decided to walk everywhere from now until we leave Rome. We are super done with buses and tour groups. DONE-ZO.

Tomorrow the forecast is rain. SO! museum day! yesssssss. 1st stop: Edward Hopper exhibition.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

in bocca al lupo

Means "Good luck" in Italian! We have had such good luck getting train tickets, plane tickets, hotel reservations when over 7 million people were stuck in airports and train stations all over Europe.

OK, so far we have climbed the Spanish steps, tossed three coins in the Trevi Fountain over our left shoulders, had lunch with the Mayor of Rome and his marching band, had a long chat with Raphael in the Pantheon and checked the time on the ceiling to make sure we weren't late for the changing of the guard.




Our first meal together in Rome was in a brightly lit, sexually/sensually (both?) decorated vegetarian restaurant, Il Margutta Ristorante, off the main drag, Via del Corso. It was the perfect antidote to the heat and mayhem of the cobble-stoned, tourist group infested streets. We will have to go back for their 5 course vegan dinner...CANNOT WAIT.

That night we rushed over to the Chiesa All Saints to see the Opera, I Solisti dell'Opera. They sang 22 pieces from different operas. It was comprised of a harp, 1 violin, 2 violas, a stand-up base, a cello, one flute, one clarinet, and a french horn. There were four singers, a soprano (donna), a mezzo-soprano (donna anche), and two tenors (2 dudes). Our favorites were "Una furtiva lacrima" from L'Elisir D'amore, and "Nessun Dorma" from Turandot, both by Italian composers Donizetti and Puccini (I had to keep poking mom to keep her from singing the lullaby out loud). I recognized one song off the bat from La Boheme because our family saw it recently in Florence. Saturday night, they are performing La Traviatta! We may or may not attend, but it is cool nonetheless.

Today, we people watched and ate a leisurely lunch in front of the Pantheon. In our 2 hour repose we feasted on pasta dei fagioli, a fresh caprese, and an incredible radiccio, gorgonzola, and walnut salad drizzled with olive oil (or EVOO, for all you Rachel Ray watchers). To finish up we scarfed some tiramisu, seriously. scarfed. downed un espresso and un caffe macchiato and made our way back into the fray.

Teaching mom to say "May I please have an espresso with a spot of milk, please" was my highlight of the day. Mom's was seeing the St. Matthew triptych (the calling of, the martyrdom of, and the inspiration of) in the Chiesa Sant' Luigi dei Francesi by Caravaggio (which was actually my favorite as well because I got to share what I had learned in class with mom).

ciao! ci vediamo domani!

Sunday, April 18, 2010

the cause of all this rukus



a rough start

Hello Chelsea! I believe you are one of mom and my few followers. Well, what was formerly known as The Root Search, will now be known as Volcano Adventures since the volcano seriously disrupted our plans.

Now. We are no longer going to Dublin/Glasgow, but are going to continue our Italian adventures in Roma!
This will be awesome because

1) I get to continue using my Italian.
2) the UK isn't known for their great food...
3) we get to go shopping because mom only brought clothes for hiking around in Dubs.
4) I would be happy to go anywhere with mom for a week

So, mom fly's in to Roma tomorrow morning, and i get there on Tuesday afternoon (after one more night in this amaaaaaaazing hotel)! Let the adventure begin...